Pharrell, sneakers, Polo, and Ye
5 min read · Mar 19, 2024
Last month, I wrote a piece documenting Ye’s Pastelle line. In the article, I discussed Ian Connor’s role in the brand and how he is positioned to relaunch it. But while working on Pastelle, he has not forgotten about his own label. Sickö, Born From Pain.
Sickö debuted in 2018 and has become prominent through its Björk-themed logo and collaborations with T-Rex Global. Being seen donned by countless celebrities and figures in the fashion and music scene, Sickö has continued to grow throughout the years. In the past few months, though, the brand has slowed down in releasing collections. When Ian was asked on X in June of last year if anything new was coming from Sickö, he responded, “The full collection, that’s all.” It has been nearly a year since that response, and it has yet to come to fruition. But, through Ian’s and sicko_is_pain’s previews, the anticipation is high.
From the sneak peeks, it’s clear that Ian is not just creating another simple capsule collection. He is honing in on his artistic talent. His references to Pharrell’s Billionaire Boys Club, such as the zigzagged hooded sweatshirt, pays homage to a legendary designer. Ian is not just relying on his Björk-themed sweatsuits, as he is pushing his creative boundaries. The hooded black leather jacket, a piece many have been eagerly waiting for, features the Sickö logo outline meticulously plastered throughout the leather. This attention to detail, despite the simplicity of the text, is what sets Sickö apart. Some people have complained about the logo being on the jacket, but I believe it only adds to the flavor and is executed flawlessly. However, the puffer vest flannel, with the Sickö S logo on the front and the full logo on the back, has been a hit with the brand’s followers. A navy colorway of the vest, spotted on Ian, has only added to the excitement. Although it is 2024, and people do not credit Ian with as much influence as, say, 2017, he is still as influential as ever. It may be more indirect, but the hold his style has on the scene is substantial.
While some people have referred to Sickö as “plateauing,” I believe that Ian is simply taking time to create a phenomenal collection. Too often, brands are seen pumping out lackluster pieces that prove to fade away very quickly. It takes time to put together a collection of items that will still hold a place in the fashion zeitgeist years down the line. For example, Sickö has been working on their mountain sneakers for a long time. It has been reported that these sneakers will return, as they have recently been seen being worn by Robert Naftali. Naftali has his own sneaker brand, Naf Global. Over the past few years, he has released some fantastic colorways for his models. I have a few myself, and I have only grown to love them more as the days go on. It would be interesting if he had been involved in designing the new Sickö sneakers, as the model has dramatically improved from the original versions, which were previously scrapped.
Another product that fans of Sickö have been waiting on would be the Sickö script leather jacket. This piece references Supreme’s “Uptown Studded Leather Varsity Jacket,” released in spring/summer 2016. This reference goes beyond just the coat. The Supreme jacket has its own history. It was notably seen being worn by Playboi Carti. Since Ian Connor assisted Playboi Carti in his rise in the hip-hop scene, it is a nod to a time of ascending through the ranks.
Ian Connor knows who to surround himself with. The designers he works with have greatly helped his vision come to fruition in seemingly impossible ways. For example, Matt John Beale, a designer who has worked with the likes of Ye, Stüssy, AWGE, and many more, is constantly designing new Sickö pieces and working alongside Ian. Another creative Ian has worked with, scianca.jr on Instagram, created a denim set for Sickö by hand. The set, which features the Polo Ralph Lauren logo repeated across the jacket and jeans, immediately received a positive reception. Whether or not the set is released to the public, it proves the genuine desire for creation. To showcase something without releasing it may appear as “annoying” to the fanbase. However, it demonstrates the love of the act of creating. Ian’s constant mode of designing new pieces is similar to Ye’s hard work ethic regarding his music. Countless of his songs and projects have never seen the light of day. But, the constant determination always leads to the best possible music reaching the listener’s ear. The arts are something that should never be rushed.
Countless other items have been previewed and continue to surface each day. Why I believe the upcoming collection will be Ian’s best yet isn’t all attributed to specific pieces. It is the fact that Ian has recently turned 31 and has been in the scene for as long as anyone can remember. He is at a new level of creative genius and is at the helm of two large brands. Sickö and Pastelle. Creating for each brand most likely leads to ideas bouncing off between labels. Making a Pastelle piece may inspire a new design for Sickö, or vice versa. I might just be hyper-analyzing here, but who knows. Sickö may have slowed down in releases, but the future holds much promise.
